Here’s another round-up of my mini-reviews from Twitter, this time spanning the period July to September 2014.
Royal Extract from Guerlain (Thierry Wasser (& Mathilde Laurent?); 2014)**
This new Harrods exclusive is actually the much-missed Attrape-Coeur by Mathilde Laurent. Attrape-Coeur was, of course, also known as Guet-Apens and was also released as an EDT called Vol De Nuit Evasion. Royal Extract is perhaps a touch more powdery and a bit less boozy than Attrape-Coeur, but it’s essentially the same scent. And now, hold your breath for the crunch: a mere £285 for 125 ml. And it’s a limited edition.
Starts well – sharp, grassy lime – then fizzles into cheapness. The saline cucumber note doesn’t help.
Charming if familiar tea + rose scent. Little sign of ‘folly’, but easy to wear & to like. Classic Goutal.
Bayolea from Penhaligon’s (Mike Parrot; 2014)*
Competent herbal fougere with 4711 ‘shaving product’ whiff. Drydown lacks authority. Harmless stuff while it lasts.
Lothair from Penhaligon’s (Bertrand Duchaufour; 2014)*
Pleasant patchouli & cardamom composition, with barber-shop-cologne herbs (mainly rosemary). Friendly. Undemanding.
Empressa from Penhaligon’s (Mike Parrot; 2014)*
An interesting release, mainly because it serves to show how non-commercial most of the brand’s wares are. Not this one though. A fruity shampoo-fest. Synthetic musks galore. Something I’d expect from YSL or D&G. Shades of Coco Mademoiselle.
Levantium from Penhaligon’s (Christian Provenzano; 2014)*
Dry, bitter, cedar, with hint of spices. Disappointingly linear. Failed attempt to jump on the Spicebomb bandwagon.
Man from Jimmy Choo (2014)*
Stay away! Don’t encourage the industry to produce any more of this ‘fruity fresh’ man-straight-out-of-the-shower dreck.
Resist Me from Liaison De Parfum (2013)**
Curious ‘kebabs on charcoal’ facet alongside vetivert & smoked leather. Garishly synthetic sandalwood in base.
No Matter What from Liaison De Parfum (2013)**
Cold gooseberry + lychee over dry cedar. Hints of acidic grapes. Peachy florals. Surprisingly likeable.
I Dare You from Liaison De Parfum (2013)**
Burnt whisky, patchouli, sangria, cinnamon, leather & stewed herbs all lead to a very decent amber base. More than a hint of Yatagan here. We’ve had this sort of thing before, but this is a more-than-competent rendition of the theme.
Stay With Me from Liaison De Parfum (2013)**
Light-infused, musky floral with a decent lily note. Strong whiffs of suntan oil. Well-made, if pedestrian.
Persolaise
* sample provided by brand
** sample obtained by the author
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Dear Persolaise,
thanks for your snapshot reviews. Question regarding Lothair: allegedly, it was inspired by the Tea Clipper ships that carried tea and spices all the way from the East. Is there any track of black tea there? I didn't have the chance to sample it… Thanks!
Lupo, I revisited Lothair so I could answer your question. Yes, there might be a faint suggestion of black tea in there… but it's little more than a suggestion.