Here’s a new Twitter mini-review round-up, this time covering the first three months of 2017.


Colonia Quercia from Acqua Di Parma (2016)*
Brave trying to do a mossy note. Linked with fruit-citrus aspects, it works well. Rather burly & saturnine.

Blossom Love from Amouage (2017)*
Hard-headed florals & mosses. Tough to find the love here. An unyielding quality at odds with the idea of blossoms.

Lilac Love from Amouage (2016)*
Confident retro chypre, with greens, lilacs, rose, patchouli & cacao. Maybe touch too loud, but likeable nonetheless.

Roaring Radcliff from Penhaligon’s (Daphné Bugey; 2016)*
Promising, dry, earthy tobacco, linked with rose and cool spices. A pleasing combo, but fades too quickly.

Savoy Steam eau de cologne from Penhaligon’s (Juliette Karagueuzoglou; 2017)*
Simplistic eucalyptus cologne. Not especially sunny or bright. Doesn’t want to be friends.


So First from Van Cleef & Arpels (Nathalie Lorson; 2016)*
Your basic fruity-musky-shampoo composition with vanillic drydown. At least it has the good grace not to shout.

Le Musc & La Peau from Parfumerie Générale (Pierre Guillaume; 2016)*
Simple, sweet musks, as skin-clinging as you’d expect. Not unlike Lutens’ Clair De Musc. Uninvolving.

The Scent For Her from Boss (2016)*
Oh my God, suddenly drowning in a vat of cough medicine seems like a good way to die. Lord save us from this dreck.

Aqua Celestia from Maison Francis Kurkdjian (Francis Kurkdjian; 2017)*
These celestial water ways are filled with lime trees & dulcet mimosa puffs. Pleasant translucency.

Opus Kore from Vilhelm Parfumerie (Jerome Epinette; 2015)*
Apple, peach, magnolia and coconut notes wrapped in shampoo-centric musks. Mono-dimensional, but quite large.

Room Service from Vilhelm Parfumerie (Jerome Epinette; 2015)*
Spare, quite sterile fruity, lactonic accord, heavy on synthetics. Meant to be a super-clean hotel room?

Fleur Burlesque from Vilhelm Parfumerie (Jerome Epinette; 2015)*
Fairly obvious white floral (between tuberose & gardenia) lacking depth or intrigue. Not much soul here.

Smoke Show from Vilhelm Parfumerie (Jerome Epinette; 2015)*
Vetivert with its familiar attributes (rooty, mineralic, liquorice-like) but oddly, not very smoky. Humdrum.

Black Citrus from Vilhelm Parfumerie (Jerome Epinette; 2015)*
Urinous sage-like note at core is more dark green than black. Lemons, violets & pale woods in the mix too.

Don’t Tell Jasmine from Vilhelm Parfumerie (Jerome Epinette; 2017)*
Basic jasmine soliflore displaying little of the bravery needed 4 this sort of scent to be memorable.

Persolaise

* sample provided by the brand
** sample obtained by the author


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