Here’s part 2 of my latest round-up of Twitter mini-reviews. For part 1, please click here.
Eau Des Delices from Jardins Retrouvé (Yuri Gursatz; 2016)*
Classic cologne, with bright mandarine, bergamot and lemon notes. Simple. Wearable. Forgettable.
Jasmin Kama from Rania J (Rania Jouaneh; 2013)**
Heavy, mothball indoles over sticky musky-vanilla base. Jasmine as confection. I’ll go straight for the cheese course.
Ambre Loup from Rania J (Rania Jouaneh; 2012)**
Mono-dimensional labdanum overdose, with suggestion of woods and spices. Rapidly loses any heat it may possess at start.
T Habanero from Rania J (Rania Jouaneh; 2014)**
Opens as wonderfully brash 80s man concoction – tobacco, nutmeg & strong woods. Grows too quiet, but remains charming.
Cuir Andalou from Rania J (Rania Jouaneh; 2016)**
Impressively dry leather opening leads to off-putting, pseudo-Arabian sandalwood note, a la generic man smell. Shame.
Lavande 44 from Rania J (Rania Jouaneh; 2012)**
When mis-handled, lavender notes can be harsh, crude, snarling, unpleasant, overly-synthetic beasts. Like in this scent.
Limanakia from Parfumerie Generale (Pierre Guillaume; 2016)**
Extraordinarily awful marine note followed by crass, unpalatable white florals. PG is usually much better.
Super Cedar from Byredo (2016)**
As expected, lots of dry cedar, bolstered by vetivert and abrasive, standoffish woods. Simplistic. Hardly super.
Heliotropia from Byredo (2016)**
Liberty exclusive. Hairspray, cellophane and almond/heliotrope over planed woody base. Not as quirky as brand thinks.
Tobacco Nuit from Atelier Cologne (2016)*
Commendably simple rendition of tobacco note (very Havana) supported by labdanum, woods & incense. Good work.
Dilettante from Hiram Green (Hiram Green; 2016)**
Very well-done orange blossom, heavy on Green’s beloved, old-worldy indoles. Manages to be both welcoming & scary.
Tenue De Soirée from Annick Goutal (Mathieu Nardin; 2016)*
A gourmand chypre, if there is such a thing. Sweet, eyelash-fluttering iris powder, over dry patchouli.
Rose De Taif from Perris (Luca Maffei; 2013)**
Opens as it should. Peppery. Full-blooded. Fire-gazing. Loud. Glorious. Then becomes simpler, but remains attractive.
Tragedy Of Lord George from Penhaligon’s (Alberto Morillas; 2016)**
Starts well, as variant on cold-spice elegance of Déclaration. Then gives in to synthetic sandalwoods.
Much Ado About The Duke from Penhaligon’s (Daphné Bugey; 2016)**
Cardamom & pepper combine with rose & ambers to create an interesting, not off-putting arrogance.
Coveted Duchess Rose from Penhaligon’s (Christophe Raynaud; 2016)**
Pale, green, simple rose, a la Di Parma’s Rosa Nobile. Certainly lovely, but lacking distinctiveness.
Revenge Of Lady Blanche from Penhaligon’s (Daphné Bugey; 2016)**
Soapy shampoo notes with green hyacinth. Not especially vengeful, but pretty, in an entirely safe way.
Peonia Nobile from Acqua Di Parma (2016)*
As we’ve come to expect from this range, a charming floral, reflecting various shades of vivid pink. Cute.
Persolaise
* sample provided by the brand
** sample obtained by the author
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