The latest from Lutens and Sheldrake is a delightful exercise in wrong-footing the wearer. At first, a potential buyer is likely to notice its colour: dense, purple and almost opaque, it wouldn’t look out of place inside a bottle of Ribena. Then comes the name. Granted, ‘The Girl From Berlin’ doesn’t necessarily conjure any specific olfactory references, but I’d argue that it channels visions of Sally Bowles and pre-war decadence, which would, in turn, suggest a bold, showy scent. And then of course there’s the baggage surrounding Uncle Serge himself. Rightly or wrongly, his eponymous brand has become associated with the heavier end of the perfumery spectrum – as defined by western tastes – and the sight of a fragrance that looks like it’s been squeezed out of a vat of ripe berries would seem to play right into such a reputation.
But when it’s released onto skin, the smell comes as a surprise. It’s a simple rose. Indeed, it’s so simple that when you first spray it, you wonder if something isn’t quite right. Have you applied enough? Are you coming down with a cold? Could the sample be defective? Displaying an unassuming, mono-dimensional cleanliness – of the sort you’d expect from the rose scent of a cream like, say, Nivea – the perfume settles upon your flesh and stays put, as though intent on avoiding complexity.
Persolaise.
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So apparently some people think Rossy de Palma smells like blood. Any comment there?
Elisa, in all honesty, no, I don't get a strong blood note from RdP. From Vierges & Toreros, maybe, but from RdP… not so sure.
That's a relief. Me either.
Elisa, I should also say that the blood note in Fille De Berlin is very faint and doesn't amount to much more than a metallic edge.
I can't wait to try this. I don't know of many from the Lutens line that don't surprise you in some way and this sounds like it won't disappoint. And the deep purple juice adds a nice layer or intrigue even if it is deceptive.
Dubaiscents, the colour is a curious issue. If the list of ingredients on the packaging is anything to go by, then the purple hue has been achieved artificially. I never quite what to make of 'fake' fragrance colours… although this one IS very attractive…
A Rooh Afza accord? Hot damn, must smell! Also, great review in terms of pinpointing the references made by this Lutens
Anon, it's definitely a must-try. And Rooh Afza is practically a perfume in itself, with its rose, orange, apple, mint and vetivert.
Although La Fille de Berlin subverts expectations and becomes clean, I long for the days when Monsieur Lutens just went heavy, heavy and heavy. I'll try it, for sure, but at the moment I don't have any inclination to buy it 🙂
Joshuaang, I know what you're saying… but if he were to keep doing the same thing over and over again, then people would criticise him for that too.
I'd say La Fille is well worth trying. Let me know what you make of it.