It’s so wonderful to be able to approach a perfume with almost no prior knowledge of its construction, especially when it turns out to be as impressive as Cuir Velours. One whiff, and I was plunged back into the childhood aromas I associate with hugs from aunties and grandmothers: lipstick that still smelt like lipstick; chalky face powder; rose-inflected body lotion; the leather of the handbag hanging off a shoulder; the fabric of a dress that’s absorbed not the synthetic musks of a washing detergent, but the welcoming odour of its wearer.
Julien Rasquinet’s composition invites an immediate comparison with Ralf Schwieger‘s Lipstick Rose, and although both scents rely on nostalgic associations to achieve their effects, Cuir Velours doesn’t induce the chuckles which LR always draws from me. Here, the floral waxiness of the cosmetics facet is allied to a surprising dose of spices (cardamom, cloves, perhaps a touch of cumin) as well as the eponymous tannery note (rich with resins in the base) to create a whole that is assertive and retrospective in equal measure. Suffused with the sort of glowing dignity which only hindsight is capable of granting to the past, it wraps itself in a tailored, full-length coat, dons an elegant hat and slips into patent leather heels before sauntering its way into the evening. A must try.
[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum obtained in 2013.]
Persolaise.
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It sounds gorgeous ,can you get it here ?Angie Cox
Angie, very good question. I think for the moment the answer's No. But it might be worth contacting Luckyscent to see if they'd send a bottle across the Atlantic. Or perhaps you could check out the official Naomi Goodsir site.
Thank-you.Angie Cox.
🙂 Let me know if you get a chance to try it.
Ah Persolaise
What a simply splendid review.
A cross between Lipstick Rose without the laughs) you say and a trusted handbag, but suitable for a night on the town.
How lovely, especially with proper make up powder (Caron? Guerlain?).
The Dandy is fascinated as ever with the handling of leathers in the composition. I too find these amongst the most emblematic and evocative of accords.
The quite different sensation in Cabochard brought memories, imaginary or otherwise flowing back for me recently…
http://theperfumeddandy.com/2013/02/14/un-premier-amour-a-first-love-cabochard-by-parfums-gres/
We will always have Paris, and leather one hopes.
Yours ever
The Perfumed Dandy
Perfumed Dandy, thanks for stopping by. Your comment made me remember that YSL recently tried to exploit the 'Paris + leather' idea with Parisienne… although their effort didn't quite work.
OK, THAT resulted in an immediate sample purchase. 🙂
Cool 🙂 Let me know what you make of it, Unseencenser.
Glad you liked it. Did you try Bois d'Ascese too?
Lucas, yes, I've tried that one too. I'm considering writing a review.
[…] Goodsir Cuir Velours 6:00Guerlain Eau De Guerlain 11:00Olfactive Studio Chambre Noire 15:45Sugandhco Gajra […]
I am so happy I found this scent. It’s my first real grown up perfume that I can wear that doesn’t give me a headache. In the past I’ve worn JPG le Male and Clarins eau dynamissante which I both love but always wanted a real fancy lady scent. I love all of Naomi Goodsir’s scents. They feel very grown up to me.
Yes, they’re wonderful.
Thanks for writing.
I have Or Du Serail, Cuir Velours and Bois D’ascese. All remarkable creations. The bottom line is that they are thoughtful, contrary and so much fun to wear. Or Du Serail reminds me of being a kid kicking through wet autumn leaves and eating a Weis Mango ice cream (Oz readers will know what I mean).
Gosh — now I want to know what that means!
Thanks for taking the time to write.