In a field where most products fall under the ‘pleasant but forgettable’ category, anything that’s even remotely challenging or perplexing deserves to be welcomed with open arms. Enter: Pierre Guillaume‘s latest addition to his Huitième Art range, Poudre De Riz.
When it was first presented to me, I was told to expect a similarity with Dominique Ropion‘s Alien, and yes, that odd, unearthly woody-jasmine accord is certainly one of its most prominent features. But this scent is no Mugler clone. It starts with a most curious juxtaposition: face powder and nail varnish remover. Next comes a suggestion of syrupy morello cherries, placed alongside the delicate texture of Japanese fruit jelly. Then the temperature is turned right down, to the extent that the powder facet feels like it’s been locked inside an industrial freezer. And finally, the sweet, musky base suggests the intimacy of hair or the skin on the back of a familiar neck.
In brief… Let’s stick with Pierre for a moment. Back in July 2011, my review of his Naïviris declared that the perfume was like a visit to the mosque in Djenné. By some delightful twist of scented coincidence, he’s called his new creation for his Parfumerie Générale brand Djhenné… although the funny thing is that it doesn’t make me think of Africa. It’s essentially a lavender juxtaposed with those grating, rough-edged woods that seem to be de rigueur in so many mainstream masculines. It features an intriguing top section (a strange, herbal woodiness) and a commendable animalic facet (which fades too quickly) but it descends into an unremarkable, albeit enjoyable, vanillic drydown. Perhaps this is Guillaume’s idea of Mali, but I struggled to see it anywhere south of the Med.
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Please don’t forget to check out this post for info about how you can win a full bottle of Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling. And if you’re in or near London on the 29th of November, you might like to attend my book signing event; click here for more details.
Persolaise.
Poudre de Riz was powdery and quite soft and feminine on me, but now I have nipped over to Basenotes to read more about its inspiration, I am agog to give it another go to see if I get more of its raunchy beach cabin accord!
Vanessa, I couldn't agree more that PdR is mainly powdery, but yes, I do think there are other elements present too. Mind you, I don't entirely go along with PG's analogy.