In the same way that theatre producers use Macbeth to get bums on seats, perfume houses tend to use vanilla-based scents as their cash cows. And more often than not, they link the ingredient with labdanum and benzoin to produce that most crowd-pleasing of fragrances: amber. Of course, the popularity of the genre makes it extremely difficult for perfumers to find anything new to say when working within it. The textbook classic of the type, Shalimar, has been around for almost one hundred years, yet it still takes some beating. Ambre Sultan pretty much dominates the corner held by herbal, smoky ambers. And Musc Ravageur – itself a reinterpretation of Shalimar – is probably the consummate 21st century amber. Almost all the bases have been covered.
But every now and then, someone finds a new angle, or travels further along a previously chosen path, which is when we get something like Ambre Doré. Those of you who’ve enjoyed the pungent pleasures of Montale’s Aoud Cuir D’Arabie will recognise its construction straight away: it is essentially a bold, roasted leather, atop a vanillic base, with a scattering of bitter thyme, tarragon and dill. But whereas the Montale places most of its emphasis on its woody, tannery notes, AD goes for a reverse structure and grants a larger share of the limelight to the drydown.
In brief… I can’t claim to be overly impressed by all three of the debut scents from the Irish brand Cloon Keen Atelier. Bataille De Fleurs is an innocuous mimosa composition with hints of lilies and sharp greens. It may have been composed by Stéphanie Bakouche, but it is disappointingly monochromatic compared to her work for MDCI. And contrary to the claim made on the CKA website, it certainly doesn’t create the “windswept atmosphere of being on the Côte D’Azur.” Terre De L’Encens employs the services of juniper-like notes to suggest ozonic freshness – which is fine – but its heart is an insipid, overly synthetic incense note with none of the soulfulness one would hope to find in a fragrance bearing such a momentous name. Rather unexpectedly, it resembles Lutens’ L’Eau Froide, not least in terms of the speed with which it outstays its welcome.
Persolaise
Interesting, I hadn't thought of Castana as aldehydic, I must give it another sniff. I do adore it's nuttiness, a gourmand note without being overly sweet or cloying.. I have a tiny of sample of this scent that I will adore in small doses over a long time.
Sarah, thanks for stopping by. Yes, I enjoyed the savoury gourmand vibe too. As a brand, CKA seems to be enjoying increasing popularity. Perhaps their wares will become more interesting as time passes.