Oh, I do so enjoy a perfume that takes me on an interesting ride (even if it’s to a destination that’s popped up a lot on Persolaise.com). For a start, Yann Vasnier‘s Santal Blush opens with a wholly credible depiction of India – albeit from a tourist’s point of view – which is no mean feat, considering that it probably contains a bare minimum of Mysore sandalwood (if any at all). Somehow, by virtue of an intricate cocktail of synthetic substitutes, fenugreek, cardamom and possibly incense, the scent’s opening manages to convey the weighty, milky creaminess that emanates from the hand-carved trinkets which, these days, are kept under lock and key in Mumbai’s souvenir shops.
But then comes a twist in the subcontinental tail. The sandalwood note quietens down and makes more room for the cardamom, which grows sweeter, more powdery and finally enters the territory of Jean-Claude Ellena’s Declaration for Cartier. The effect is complex, smooth and as beguiling as an evening spent wandering along Colaba Causeway.
On the other hand, Jasmin Rouge – created by Rodrigo Flores-Roux – is another pointless floral. It may be the first fragrance to contain an absolute from sambac jasmine sepals, but it doesn’t have anything particularly relevant or memorable to say. Never mind: its more refined partner makes up for its shortcomings.
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Madbint
Congratulations! Please send your postal address to persolaise at gmail dot com and I’ll get your prize off to you straight away.
Persolaise.
[Tom Ford Santal Blush and Jasmin Rouge reviews based on samples of eau de parfum obtained in 2011; fragrances tested on skin.]
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I completely agree with both of your reviews! My feeling is that Jasmin Rouge isn't worth the materials it's made from.
Tom Ford seems to be "in the air" recently. I keep coming across this brand all over the Blogosphere (and not only for the latest releases). I've just finished my series for the weeklong test drive of Tom Ford's perfumes but I decided not to include Santal Blush this time – even though I liked it – to include it later in the several sandalwood perfumes overview.
Interesting review. I love cardamom, so I'm going to seek this one out.
Undia, thanks very much indeed. I'll have to check out your write-ups.
As for Tom Ford, you're right. There's no shortage of coverage of his brand on the net.
Anon, I'm a big cardamom fan too. The note's been used very well in Santal Blush.